Why use Plants?
Plants have many benefits when added to vivariums; so much so, that many keepers of rare species include plants because of these benefits. Live plants should really be a "must-have" for most species. After all, what's the point of keeping herps if you can't enjoy them in a natural setting?
Plants help stabilize soil, making burrows stronger, and microhabitats more stable. They provide places for cover from predators, weather, or each other and also provide places to complete their reproductive cycles (such as Oophaga spp. and Ranitomeya spp. and their use of Bromeliads and Heliconia spp.). Much like in aquaria, plants will also use up the nitrates in the soil thus completing the nitrogen cycle: something often completely ignored by herp hobbyists.
Another huge benefit of using live plants is that they can act as a "canary in a coal mine" so to speak. Animals tend to hide illness (in an attempt not to show predators their weakness), meaning if something is wrong with the enclosure you likely won't know until it's too late. Plants succumb to bad conditions relatively quickly, and if plants from the same area/habitat as the animal are used, then they can be an early warning sign before it's too late.
Definitions
Before going into suitable plants, here are some terms that will be useful;
Aerophyte: A plant that grows on another plant (an epiphyte), but it takes its water and nutrients from the air and rain. Aerophytes are not parasitic. Examples: Tillandsia spp.
Bryophyte: Mosses, hornworts & Liverworts
Chasmophyte: Plants that grow in the cracks of rocks where soil & organic matter accumulates. Examples: Crithmum maritimum,
Epiphyte: Plants that grow on other plants or on nonliving objects. Examples: Neoregelia spp., Pleurothallis spp., Many mosses, etc.
Hemiepiphyte: (Primary Hemiepiphyte) Plants that start their lives strictly as epiphytes. Eventually they send their roots into the soil.
(Secondary Hemiepiphyte) Plants that start their lives in the soil. Eventually they grow up other plants, taking on an epiphytic lifestyle. Examples: Many Philodendron spp., Strangler Fig (Ficus aurea, Ficus watkinsiana, etc.)
Macrophyte/Hydrophyte: Plants that grow in or around water. Examples: Nymphaea spp., Lemna minor, some Utricularia spp., Myosurus spp., Cabomba spp., etc.
Lithophyte: Plants growing on the surface of rocks. Examples: Paphiopedilum spp., Platycerium spp., mosses, algae, etc.
Mounted: This just means that the plants are planted above and out of the soil; whether it's on rocks, wood/branches, or the background.
Pups: These are offsets taken off of the main parent plants of stoloniferous species. Usually rootless. Best left on the parent plants until they are 1/3-1/2 full grown.
Biotopic/ Biotope: An enclosure designed to mimic a specific habitat. All plants/animals must come from the same area if it's to be considered a biotope. i.e. An enclosure designed for Ameerega trivittata "Huallaga" that mimics the Huallaga Valley in Peru, or an enclosure that mimics South-West Madagascar for Chalarodon madagascariensis.
Plants
Now that we've got those definitions, let's talk about plants. What plants you use will depend on many factors; such as the area the animal is from, whether it's being planted in the soil or mounted, and the amount of water that will be available. Much like the bio-active article, this is meant as a guide, and not a "one stop shop" for plants. Always do lots of research before starting your enclosures.
Bromeliads
Coming from many different habitats, Bromeliads (often referred to as "Broms" for short by some hobbyists) are an almost strictly New World group of plants (With the exception of the African Pitcairnia feliciana) . Some are strictly Epiphytes (Neoregelia spp., Tillandsia spp.), while some can be found growing on trees, as well as in soil (Many Vreisea spp.). The more popular bromeliads are as follows:
Cryptanthus:
These truly terrestrial bromeliads are endemic to Brazil, and live on the ground (though some may grow as a chasmophyte, it's not as common). They prefer relatively well draining soil, high humidity and bright lights in terraria. The brighter the lights, the more colour that will show in the plants. The most common species available in the hobby are C. acaulis, C. bivittatus, C. beukeri, C. fosterianus, C. marginatus, and C. zonatus, as well as cultivars and hybrids between these species.
Neoregelia:
This genus of bromeliads is by far the best for vivaria. With 100+ species and thousands of cultivars, Neos (short for Neoregelia) have something for everyone. Ranging from small species/cultivars such as 'Alley Oop', 'Wee Willy' (Yes, some of them have hilarious names), 'Chiquita Linda', ampullacea 'bert', to some of the bigger cutivars like 'America Purple Mountain Majesty' and 'Avalon'; there are Neos suitable for any tank size. Some of the more common species/cultivars include: 'Fireball', 'Chiquita Linda' (A personal favourite), 'Wee Willy', N. lilliputiana, N. rubrifolia, N. ampullacea, 'Hannibal Lector', and 'Mo Peppa Please'; as well as many others. Neoregelia need very intense lighting to hold their colour in vivariums, and do best when mounted higher up in the tank because of this. Being epiphytic, Neoregelia spp. should not be planted in the soil, but should instead be mounted, with their roots exposed (see below on mounting epiphytes).
Tillandsia:
The stereotypic "Airplant" often sold as a novelty (Usually hot glued to shells and magnets) is an extremely large genus of bromeliads found as far north as the southern US, down to the Amazon. Unfortunately, most of the species are not suitable for vivaria. In the wild they are found in areas with lots of air flow and light, and have the ability to dry out relatively quickly. Generally, the plants lacking the gray "fur" (called trichomes) tend to do better in tropical enclosures. Though for some species such as Caribbean Anolis, or other subtropical lizards, a wider variety of species may do ok. Lately, I have seen people using Tillandsia in desert enclosures... The species commonly available are NOT desert species. Grasses would be far more suitable for desert vivaria than Tillandsia. Being epiphytic, Tillandsia spp. should be mounted, and will rot relatively quickly if placed in soil.
Vriesea:
Another large genus of bromeliads, some Vriesea can reach monstrous sizes (I have seen many a couple feet across], and only a few species are small enough, or suitable for vivariums. Species such as V. erythrodactylon 'mini' , V. guttata, V. ospinae and V. vagans are suitable for vivs as long as they are mounted, and not planted in the soil.
Carnivorous Plants
Carnivorous plants include any plants that captures and "consumes" insects for nutrients. These plants are found around the world, mostly in nutrient-poor bogs and wetlands.
Cephalotus:
Native to Australia, These plants are hard enough to grow in near-perfect conditions as it is. Add to that the fact that it doesn't like being constantly soaked, or water sitting in its crown, these are best left out of tanks.
Dionaea:
Often sold as a novelty plant, Venus Flytraps are in no way suitable for vivaria. In order to do well, VFT's need to be cooled yearly, need far more light than what is used on tanks, and larger specimens could easily eat small inhabitants such as hatchling anolis and small dart frogs. Another plant best left for pot culture.
Drosera:
With over 150 species, Drosera are found in many parts of the world. The temperate species likely won't do well in tanks, however some of the tropical species may do well as long as they won't be trampled, and the inhabitants aren't small enough to be digested.
Heliamphora:
Another unsuitable plant for tanks. They prefer extremely bright light, loose soil, and temperatures in the 55-65°F range.
Nepenthes:
These are one of the more suitable carnivorous plants for vivaria. They tend to do well as long as they have air movement around its roots (Loose soil or mounted). The only drawbacks for Nepenthes, is that even the smaller species can reach large sizes and outgrow even the biggest vivariums. Although not likely unless the pitchers have reached significant size, there is also a risk of smaller inhabitants falling into the pitchers and becoming trapped. N. ampullaria and N. alata are two species that would do well in tanks.
Pinguicula (or "Pings" for short):
Although the temperate species won't do well long term, the Mexican species such as P. gigantea and P. mirandae would do very well in tanks if placed somewhere with lots of light, air flow, and in a place where it won't get trampled. Mexican Pinguicula have two growing "phases"; a summer carnivourous phase, and a winter succulent phase. The winter phase is triggered by a decrease in water and daylight. Because most people tend to keep the light periods the same throughout the year, most will likely stay in the summer, carnivorous phase. Unlike most carnivorous plants, Mexican Pings prefer slightly alkaline conditions, often being found on limestone in the wild.
Sarracenia:
Much like the Dionaea, Sarracenia spp. need a dormancy period to do well for more than a couple months. Coupled with the fact that they also need extremely bright lighting (full sun being ideal), most species tend to grow too big for most enclosures anyways.
Utricularia:
Easily my favourite genus of carnivorous plants, most species of Utricularia would do quite well in tropical vivariums. With terrestrial species such as U. sandersonii and U. calycifida, planting them in moss, or along the edge of water features, assures that they get the moisture they need. Aquatic species can be used, as long as they are kept under control. Make sure they are in a place where they cannot get easily trampled by large animals.
Tropical/Rainforest Plants
Begonia:
A large genus of plants, Begonia spp. are found all over the world in almost every habitat; from terrestrial, to lithophyte, to epiphyte, and everything in between. The most common Begonia found in nurseries and grocery stores tend to be the "Rex" Begonias. These don't do quite as well as the smaller species such as Begonia bowerae. The most suitable species are those found deep in the forest, and tend to do better if introduced as cuttings. Species/cultivars that do well include: B. bowerae, B. thelmae, B. prismatocarpa, and Begonia sp. Lita.
Peperomia:
A truly large genus of plants, Peperomia are almost exclusively a New World genus, with the exception of a few African species. They are vines, epiphytes, lithophytes, chasmophytes, and some are even found in arid regions with very little water. Just like begonias, Peperomia spp. tend to do better when introduced as cuttings, allowing them to establish quickly. There are a plethora of species that do well in terrariums including P. prostrata, P. caperata, P. verschaffeltii, P. argyreia, P. obtusifolia, P. clusifolia, P. rotundifolia, P. scandens, and a personal favourite, P. orba.
Gesneriads:
Gesneriads include a large of plants, and includes all growing types, and are found all over the world. Genera found in this family include Columnea spp., Codonanthe spp., Aeschynanthus spp., Nematanthus spp., and Episcia spp. Species that do well in this family of plants include Columnea arguta, C. gloriosa, C. microphylla, C. hirta, Codonanthe crassifolia, Aeschynanthus marmoratus, A. lobbianus, Nematanthus gregarius, Episcia cupreata, and E. dianthiflora.
Ferns:
Ferns are an enormous family of plants and include plants the size of a dime, to ferns several feet across. Some ferns may appear to die off initially when first introduced to the enclosure; do not fret. This is simply the fern acclimating, and it will regrow new fronds shortly. There are hundreds of ferns to choose from, with the more popular being Asplenium nidus, Pyrrosia spp., Microgramma spp., Hemionitis arifolia, Polystichum spp., Davallia spp., Pteris spp., Didymochlaena truncatula, Selaginella martensii, S. apoda, Selaginella sp. Saposoa , Adiantum raddianum, A. hispidulum, and A. tenerum.
Aroids
Aroids are a massive group of plants, and include everything from aquatic species to epiphytes. Probably the most commonly used plants, most of the aroids in cultivation are nearly bulletproof, being good options for the worst of green thumbs. The most popular aroid by far, is Epipremnum aureum, also known as Pothos (not to confused with true Pothos spp. from Australia and surrounding islands). This species can go from a single cutting, to taking over and filling the terrarium in just a few months. It's nearly bullet proof and will grow virtually anywhere as long as it has access to water. Other commonly available and suitable Aroids include Scindapsus aureus, Scindapsus pictus, Phildendron 'wend-imbe', Philodendron sp. Peru, Alocasia sanderiana, Alocasia 'Black Velvet', Alocasia 'Polly', and Syngonium rayii.
Orchids
With well over 25,000 species, Orchids are found on almost every continent on earth. Vines, bushes, terrestrial, epiphyte — orchids are found in all shapes and sizes. With so many species, it will take way too long to go through them all here, so I will only go over a few of the more suitable orchids.
My favourite group of orchids, and one of (in my opinion) the best groups for vivaria is the New World group Pleurothallids. This includes Pleurothallis, Lepanthes, Restrepia, and Masdevallia. They grow best when mounted, and given lots of humidity and air flow. Most are plenty small enough for vivariums, with Pleurothalis spp. and Restrepia spp. doing the best for me in tanks.
Bulbophyllum is another group of suitable orchids that stay small. This Asian and Madagascan Genus of orchids is widely cultivated, and readily available. An example of a suitable species is Bulbophyllum falcatum. Jewel orchids, being found in many tropical places on earth are another suitable group of orchids, with the most suitable being Ludisia spp. and Macodes spp.. Unlike the Pleurothallids and Bulbophyllum which should be mounted, Ludisia spp. and Macodes spp. are leaf litter dwellers, meaning they should be planted among the leaf litter in the tank, or in heavier, but easily draining substrate.
Jungle Cactus
Jungle cactus (of the genera Rhipsalis, Schlumbergera, Rhipsalidopsis, Zygocactus, etc. ) make great additions to any South American or Caribbean vivarium. With a wide range of species, these mostly epiphytic plants do best when mounted. While they are almost strictly New World, one species, Rhipsalis baccifera is not only found throughout tropical america, it's also found from Africa to Sri Lanka, and is the only cactus naturally found outside the New World.
Miscellaneous tropicals
Ficus pumila is another nearly bullet-proof plant given the right conditions. as long as it has plenty of light and high humidity, this plant can quickly take over a tank, sometimes faster then pothos.
Ficus (benjamina, ali, elastica, et cetera.) and Shefflera arboricola are two commonly used trees for chameleons, small Uroplatus, and thin arboreal snakes. These two trees can be used in vivs, however they will need to be heavily trimmed or completely replaced every year or so, as they outgrow the tank relatively quickly. After all, they are trees!
Calathea spp., Ctenanthe spp., & Maranta spp. are three similar Genera that both do very well in tropical enclosures. They establish root systems incredibly fast in my experience, which helps stabilize the soil. The smaller species such as C. musaica, C. undulata , Ctenanthe burle-marxii, M. leuconeura,and M. bicolor are often the best choices, though I have had great luck with the slightly bigger species, such as C. orbifolia, C. zebrina, C. sanderiana, C. crocata, C. albertii, and Calathea 'Medallion'. These are plants I have in almost all of my New World Tropical tanks, Not only because they look amazing, but the quick growing roots stabilizing the soil is a huge benefit; especially with burrowing species.
Hoya spp. & Dischidia spp. are two Asian genera that both do well in tanks when mounted, allowed air flow and kept humid. These can be introduced as cuttings or bareroot plants, and do better when mounted up high, and allowed to drape downward. Suitable species include D. ovata, H. carnosa, H. shepherdi, and H. longifolia.
Moss
Moss gets its own section because it's such a desired plant, it deserves it. When people want lush, tropical vivariums, they tend to want moss— EVERYWHERE. While this may look really nice, moss should be kept on the rocks, sticks, and background. Keep the floor clear for lots of dead leaves, seed pods, fallen branches, etc. This will give the animals places to hide. When given its minimum requirements, moss can spread quickly, and cover any and all surfaces, including glass. So what does moss need? Well moss needs 3 main things: relatively bright lighting, high humidity/lots of water, and a growing media.
Lighting
In the wild, moss tends to grow in moist, shaded areas away from full sun. People tend to copy this by keeping it in very low light levels inside as well. What they don't realize, is that what may seem like very little light outside, is actually relatively bright light inside. I find one or two HO T5 lights to be sufficient for lots of moss growth.
Humidity/ Moisture
Most moss likes to stay nice and moist. in vivaria, the easiest way to provide this is to keep the humidity as high as possible and spray it daily to keep it moist. This is more essential at the beginning when the moss is still acclimating and establishing. Once it has established and spread, humidity can be dropped somewhat to better accommodate the future inhabitants.
Growing Media
I tend to split mosses into 3 very broad, general categories. Those are mosses that forms clumps, or "hills" (acrocarp); mosses that form sheets, or "hug" the place it's growing (Pleurocarp); and aquatic mosses.
Note: All mosses can be classed as either Acrocarpous or Pleurocarpous.
Acrocarpous mosses tend to do better when grown on the ground, or areas with high organic content. These tend to look more like little palm trees, or grow vertically, rather than horizontally.
Pleurocarpous mosses that forms sheets, mats, or tend to "hug" where it's growing are usually able to grow anywhere in the vivarium. the "fronds" like more like ferns and Selaginella spp. and grow outward more than up.
Aquatic mosses can usually grow quite well emersed as long as it is kept wet. In fact, many aquatic mosses are found just above the waterline in the wild. Commonly used aquatic mosses include Java moss, X-mas moss, and flame moss.
Acclimating Wild Moss
The easiest way to acquire moss for vivs it to collect it from the wild. If you're in Canada like I am, the only mosses that tend to do well without some serious trial & error are the sheet-forming species. The small vertical, or clumping species don't do nearly as well in the warmer humid environments of most vivs, and will more often than not die off after only a couple months. The best way to acclimate is to initially soak it in a 5% bleach solution for 5-10 minutes. Not all mosses will make it through the bleaching, but it ensures there are no bugs or anything detrimental on the moss. Once this is done a quick rinse in distilled water should be done and then placed into a small shoebox with a simple substrate such as cocofiber, fir bark, or Turface™. Place in a bright place, and allow it to grow in the shoebox. You can then take what you need from this as needed. Alternatively, aquariums with glass tops can be used instead of shoeboxes if you don't like the look of stacked bins.
"Moss Milkshakes"
A recent trend with hobbyists who want to grow moss over a large area is to create a "moss milkshake". This entails putting moss in a blender with buttermilk, beer, or polymer water crystals (Really?!). The theory behind this is that the buttermilk/beer/crystals help hold the moss and provide nutrients which helps it grow. This is absolutely unnecessary, and usually ends up growing more mold than it does actual moss. It also stinks! A much simpler method is to blend the moss with water and spread it on branches, rock, etc. This won't mold nearly as easily, and what doesn't end up growing will provide more than enough nutrients for what does. Blending may not even be necessary, and placing small patches of moss around the vivarium and allowing it to establish and spread can be just as, if not more, effective than making the slurry.
Desert Plants
Cacti
Found Almost exclusively in the New World, cacti can be a great addition to arid enclosures if given enough light, and a soil that drains quickly *Check out this great article for mixing a proper mineral substrate for cacti*. Some people tend to worry about the spines found on most cacti; if you have an inhabitant that naturally occurs among them, there isn't really a need to worry. Just make sure there is room in the enclosure to go around it without having to come into contact with it 24/7. There some spineless cacti, such as Opuntia ficus-indica, which is also edible and a great staple for herbivores.
Sansevieria spp.
Native to dry forests of Africa and SW Asia, Sansevieria spp. do well in both savannah/scrub tanks as well as tropical, high humidity setups. The key to keeping these plants happy is allowing the soil to dry sightly between watering. Assuming this is followed, this plant is nearly bullet-proof. Most species will outgrow enclosures shorter than 3', but with the slow growth this plant exhibits, it can be relatively easy to control. Some of the smaller species include Sanseviaria cylindrica, S. trifasciata 'Hahnii', S. gracilis, S. horwoodii, and S. parva.
Haworthia spp. & Aloe spp.
Closely related, these two species are found in Africa and the Arabian Peninsula in savannah and desert habitats. Much like true cacti, these succulents prefer well draining soil, and intensely bright light. Most species would do well in arid enclosures such as Aloe vera, A. plicatilis, A. variegatus, young A. arborescens, Haworthia attenuata, H. fasciata, H.margaritifera , and H. tesselata.
Lithops & other Stone Plants
These stone-resembling plants are endemic to South Africa. In the wild they are found among rock and in stony soil. Because of this Lithops need extremely well draining soil, and is prone to rotting from too much water. I keep mine outside of tanks in either pure Turface™, or a mix of gravel/limestone/Turface™, and only water 3-4 times a year. They can do well in with reptiles provided the immediate area they are planted in is well draining, or receives virtually no water for most of the year.
Grasses
Grasses are (in my opinion) one of the most unused, underrated plants used in vivaria. No matter where you go; whether it's the tundra, or the Sand Dunes of Northern Africa and the Arabian Peninsula, grass is usually found and is almost ubiquitous. Sometimes it's the only plant found for miles. Between the three families (Juncaceae, Cyperaceae, & Poaceae) there is approximately 15,900 species. If you're going for a biotopic enclosure for savannah or prairie species such as some Crotalus spp., Varanus spp., Agama spp., or Scincidae spp., grass should be the most abundant in the tank, if not the only plant. With being found in virtually every habitat possible, and usually easily bought at garden centres, grass really should be added to a lot of tanks.
The main con to using a lot of grasses, is that they tend to need a LOT of light — Often times more than what is possible in many terrariums. This can be fixed by adding stronger lighting such as T5HO's, or by simply using more shade tolerant species. Most species tend to outgrow enclosures as well, however it can easily be trimmed, so this isn't really a huge issue at all.
A huge benefit to using grasses, is that the roots tend to spread quickly, helping to stabilize the soil making burrows stronger. This can take a while depending on the species, so I tend to "cheat" a bit. After planting the main grasses and plants, I cover the top of the soil with cat grass/wheat grass seeds. Because this grass grows so quickly (Often reaching a few inches tall in a matter of days), it sends out plenty of roots into the soil, making it stabilize quicker. Once the grass has been able to grow for a few weeks, and I start the see roots through the glass, I cut it right down to the soil line. This method does two things. First thing is it keeps the soil and any burrows dug more stable. Second thing is as the roots decay and are taken over by living grass roots, it breaks down and creates a source of nutrients for the grasses still in the enclosure.
For Desert and Tropical Savannah enclosures, species such as Pennisetum setaceum, Panicum repens, Boscia senegalensis, Cenchrus ciliaris, and Aristida pungens would do well, given enough light. If you decide to use grass for Mediterranean or Temperate Grasslands, species that would do well include Festuca glauca, and Schismus barbatus. For aquatic/riparian/marginal setups, Eleocharis parvula, Carex spp.,Typha spp. and Cyperus spp. would all do well.
Aquatic Plants
While aquatic plants aren't one of my stronger areas of knowledge, I'll go over some beginner species here.
Hemianthus callitrichoides
Native to Cuba, H. callitrichoides (also called "HC" by aquarists) prefers bright light and higher humidity. It does well emersed, especially if planted near a pond or water feature. Given time, and if not trampled, It will form a low growing carpet.
Anubias spp.
Coming from Africa, Anubias spp. Are naturally found growing along the waters edge as well as on waterfalls. Anubias do very well in vivaria once established. There are many species of Anubias, with the smallest, most common species being Anubias barteri var. nana.
Lemna minor
Commonly known as "Duckweed", Lemna minor will grow anywhere there is water. It is almost bullet-proof and if not "controlled" (if that's even possible with this plant) it will quickly cover the entire water surface, choking out plants below it. Unless you have something that will eat the duckweed, I would advise against using this plant if you want to have any submerged vegetation.
Echinodorus spp.
Found throughout South America, This bog plant prefers medium to bright light. It can be grown both submerged and emersed. Depending on the species, it can grow quite large, so size should be a consideration when planting the water section.
Trees/ Shrubs
Although trees and shrubs can be used in vivaria if trained as bonsais, this can be hard to do properly for a beginner. Planting saplings in enclosures can work temporarily, but unless you're willing to do some intense pruning every month or so ( possibly of both branches and roots), then these can quickly outgrow the enclosure.
Temperate Plants
Unfortunately, since most temperate plants require a dormancy, it would be a good idea to substitute them for tropical plants that look similar. Unless of course, you are able to cool the entire enclosure to accommodate for the need for a dormancy. Some species such as Acer spp., Hedera helix, and Sagina subulata can do well for a couple years in tropical conditions, but will eventually melt if not given a dormancy period. These plants are best left for outside enclosures/pits.
Processing/ Cleaning Plants
If you are buying and using plants bought at the local Hardware Store or Garden Centre, it is a good idea to clean the plants before using them in enclosures. This cleaning process gets rid of virtually all of the insecticides, pesticides, and unwanted pests. This process is simple, yet important.
1. Carefully remove all the soil on the plant.
2. Soak the plant for 10 minutes to allow it to soak up as much water as possible.
3. Soak the plants in 5-10% bleach solution ( roughly 1.25 cups per gallon) for 5 minutes.
note: this may kill some of the more fragile species such as moss, some orchids, etc. For those, either soak for only 2-3 minutes, or use a weaker bleach solution.
4. Rinse the bleach solution off of the plant. Make sure you can't smell the bleach anymore.
Start a Plant Tank
Set aside an empty tank (or 7) for propagating and growing out plants for use in vivs. This essentially gives you an unlimited supply of plants as long as you can propagate them. It also helps prevent the spread of pathogens from using plants from a different enclosure with animals in it. The plant tank can be as simple as a 10 gallon or plastic bin with sphagnum moss or as elaborate as a large indoor greenhouse with a misting and drainage system.
Mounting Epiphytes
As previously mentioned, Many species of plants do better when they are planted above the soil on objects such as rocks, twigs, and backgrounds. If planted in the soil, these plants will likely rot at the base, hence the need to keep it out of the soil. There are many methods for mounting epiphytes in vivaria, but the most common ways are as follows;
Stuffing into cracks
Simply shoving the roots or stolons into cracks or holes tight enough to keep them upright is probably the easiest method. This also makes it look very natural for lithophytic and chasmophytic plants. If planting bareroot, sphagnum moss can be stuffed into the crack along with the plants (Not needed for most bromeliads)
Toothpicks
Inserting two toothpicks into the background, place them on an angle, creating an 'X' with the toothpicks [see picture]. Place the plants between the toothpicks and the background. This will hold the plants long enough to establish a root system that will support the plant. By this point, the toothpicks will just decomposed and feed the bugs.
Wire staple
Bend a heavy gauge wire into a 'U' shape, placing it around the base of the plant and into the background. Once roots have established, and the wire is no longer needed, remove the wire.
Fishing line/ cotton string/ zip ties
Place the plants on the branch with a small clump of sphagnum moss (again, not needed for bromeliads) and wrap the fishing line or cotton string around, securing it to the branch. For zip ties, tighten it around the clump of moss/plant. You may need to use 2 or 3 to keep it all together. If using fishing line or zip ties, remove once the roots have established and they are no longer needed. Much like the toothpicks, the cotton string will hold it long enough to establish, eventually decomposing.
Drilling holes
For stoloniferous species such as Neoregelia and other bromeliads, a hole can be drilled into wood, rocks, backgrounds, etc. and the stolon jammed into the hole.
Soil
One of, if not the most important part of keeping plants is the soil it is planted in. Obviously this isn't a worry for epiphytes, but for terrestrial and hydrophytic plants, it is crucial. The soil in the enclosure should be well draining (a false bottom is very useful for this) to prevent the roots from sitting in stagnant water. You may have to compromise a bit when it comes to plants and animals. Put the animals needs first, while still allowing proper drainage for the plants. If the animal needs a hard, compact soil (such as for some arid species), consider mixing some Turface™ in around the rootball of the plant. The soil mixes mentioned in the Bio-Active article (here) are suitable for most plants. The cacti soil link provided above is also a great resource.
Placing Plants
There are many points to consider when placing your plants in the enclosure. Much like planting a freshwater aquarium, there are many styles and considerations when doing so. Here are a few:
Use an odd number of plants
Using an even number of plants tends to make things look too uniform or planned. Planting in odd numbers gives it a more "random" and natural appearance.
Put the shorter plants up front
Putting the smaller plants up front helps give a sense of depth, and allows them to get the most light possible. While this is something to consider, don't layer all the plants from shortest in the front to tallest in the back. This gives it a "Grocery shelf look" or "Staircase Look" and is often not appealing. Planting one or two larger plants up front still helps create depth and can look amazing.
Consider the biology/ growth habits
When choosing plants, don't think about what they look like that second. Think about what they will look like in 2-3, or even 5 years from now. That little Bromeliad pup won't stay small. Will planting it there eventually shade out the plants below it? Will X plant get enough light if planted there?
Also consider growth rate. If planted in an appropriate spot, Plants WILL grow; sometimes REALLY fast. Species such as Pothos, Ficus pumila, or Tradescantia spp. grow super fast and need to be kept under control before they out grow the enclosure and choke out all the other plants. Make sure you keep fast growing plants trimmed to allow the slower/smaller plants access to light.
Lastly, place plants where they would naturally grow in the wild. i.e. Keep Cryptanthus spp. on the ground, and Tillandsia spp. and Neoregelia spp. mounted up high.
Use mostly green plants
Using mostly green plants will allow the animals to be the focal point of the enclosure. Too many colourful plants can look gaudy and unnatural; especially a tank full of a plethora of different Neoregelia cultivars. Don't get me wrong, one or two colourful plants can look really good in a terrarium, but there is definitely a point where it's just too much.
Make sure they can withstand the inhabitants
This one is pretty straight forward. Don't put plants in an enclosure where they will easily get crushed. For example, don't put small orchids or delicate ferns in with Emerald Tree Boas, Iguanas, or retics. They will be destroyed in a matter of minutes. Keep the delicate plants with small and delicate reptiles.
Don't use too many plants/ Keep the density low
If you look on the ground of a forest, you'll see that while there is a large variety of plants, they are fairly spread out (perhaps with the exception of epiphyte laden branches and rocks). Try to keep the number of species low. This will not only look more natural, but it'll be a bit easier to keep track of the plants.
Plant in clusters
In the wild, plants tend to grow in clusters. Replicate this by planting them in odd number groups.
Lighting/ Shade
This goes hand-in-hand with growth habits above. Don't plant huge plants that will shade out everything under it. Make sure the light is strong enough to reach the bottom.
As mentioned above, what may seem bright inside, may actually be deep shade outside. Don't be afraid to provide bright lighting. It will help the plants grow, and is very unlikely to hurt the reptiles in anyway (keep in mind the animals experience the same light levels the plants do in the wild). However, there is such a thing as too much light for plants and reptiles. Too bright of lights can make the tank hard to look at, while also making it look unnatural.
Consistency
Be consistent. If you've chosen to do an Peruvian biotope, don't put a Ludisia bicolor in the tank. If planting in clumps, don't put one species all over the tank. Pretty straight forward.
Pick a focal point
Similar to using mostly green plants, choose one specimen plant to be the focal point. These tend to be the colourful plants. Too many colourful plants and the focal point is lost. A big Neoregelia cv. or a clump of a showy Gesneriad can make really nice focal points.
"Safe" Plants
There are many "Safe Plant Lists" out there online; some better than others. While using non-toxic plants for herbivorous species is important, this is pretty much a useless practice for species that won't actively seek out plants to eat. As long as the plants aren't overly sharp, or are too small to eat the inhabitants, and won't get trampled, most plants are fine in enclosures with carnivores, and some omnivores.
Numerous non-toxic plant lists can be found with a simple Google search, so I won't list any here. However, if you are looking at a plant that isn't on the list and you are unsure, snap a branch or leaf. If a sticky white sap, or an onion smell is expelled, err on the side of caution and don't use it. Not all plants with sticky white sap or the onion smell with be toxic, but it's better to be safe than sorry.
Let the plants grow in
You may have noticed the almost excessive use of the words "establish" and "stabilize" throughout this article —That was not an accident. This is an important aspect to using plants in an enclosure with live animals. If the plants are not given a chance to establish (send out roots and stabilize itself in the soil), then the animals could dig down, uproot the plants, destroying them in the process. Also as mentioned numerous times, the plant roots help stabilize the soil, in turn making burrows and microhabitats/ niches better. Not only will allowing the plants to grow in make the plants happy, it will also make the animals happier since it provides them with a more natural environment. Allowing the plants and enclosure to grow and establish for at least a month will allow the plants to send out roots and for the bacteria and microfauna to populate the tank to levels capable of handling the animal waste (similar to cycling an aquarium before adding fish).
Conclusion
First off, if you actually made it to this point and read through all of it, congrats. This ended up being a lot longer than I had anticipated! Hopefully it didn't scare you away from using plants, and instead enticed you to use them in all or most of your vivs. If it did, don't worry, it's not that hard! Live plants can be just as, if not more addicting than the reptiles themselves. I often find myself spending way more on plants than I ever do on herps. There are so many choices, and you can have everything from a general biome setup, to a biotopic enclosure mimicking a single mountain side or ditch. Anyways, I could keep going, but this article is probably long enough already. I hope this article guides you towards usig live plants!
©2015-2016 Jeremy Kosonic. All Rights Reserved.
Plants have many benefits when added to vivariums; so much so, that many keepers of rare species include plants because of these benefits. Live plants should really be a "must-have" for most species. After all, what's the point of keeping herps if you can't enjoy them in a natural setting?
Plants help stabilize soil, making burrows stronger, and microhabitats more stable. They provide places for cover from predators, weather, or each other and also provide places to complete their reproductive cycles (such as Oophaga spp. and Ranitomeya spp. and their use of Bromeliads and Heliconia spp.). Much like in aquaria, plants will also use up the nitrates in the soil thus completing the nitrogen cycle: something often completely ignored by herp hobbyists.
Another huge benefit of using live plants is that they can act as a "canary in a coal mine" so to speak. Animals tend to hide illness (in an attempt not to show predators their weakness), meaning if something is wrong with the enclosure you likely won't know until it's too late. Plants succumb to bad conditions relatively quickly, and if plants from the same area/habitat as the animal are used, then they can be an early warning sign before it's too late.
Definitions
Before going into suitable plants, here are some terms that will be useful;
Aerophyte: A plant that grows on another plant (an epiphyte), but it takes its water and nutrients from the air and rain. Aerophytes are not parasitic. Examples: Tillandsia spp.
Bryophyte: Mosses, hornworts & Liverworts
Chasmophyte: Plants that grow in the cracks of rocks where soil & organic matter accumulates. Examples: Crithmum maritimum,
Epiphyte: Plants that grow on other plants or on nonliving objects. Examples: Neoregelia spp., Pleurothallis spp., Many mosses, etc.
Hemiepiphyte: (Primary Hemiepiphyte) Plants that start their lives strictly as epiphytes. Eventually they send their roots into the soil.
(Secondary Hemiepiphyte) Plants that start their lives in the soil. Eventually they grow up other plants, taking on an epiphytic lifestyle. Examples: Many Philodendron spp., Strangler Fig (Ficus aurea, Ficus watkinsiana, etc.)
Macrophyte/Hydrophyte: Plants that grow in or around water. Examples: Nymphaea spp., Lemna minor, some Utricularia spp., Myosurus spp., Cabomba spp., etc.
Lithophyte: Plants growing on the surface of rocks. Examples: Paphiopedilum spp., Platycerium spp., mosses, algae, etc.
Mounted: This just means that the plants are planted above and out of the soil; whether it's on rocks, wood/branches, or the background.
Pups: These are offsets taken off of the main parent plants of stoloniferous species. Usually rootless. Best left on the parent plants until they are 1/3-1/2 full grown.
Biotopic/ Biotope: An enclosure designed to mimic a specific habitat. All plants/animals must come from the same area if it's to be considered a biotope. i.e. An enclosure designed for Ameerega trivittata "Huallaga" that mimics the Huallaga Valley in Peru, or an enclosure that mimics South-West Madagascar for Chalarodon madagascariensis.
Plants
Now that we've got those definitions, let's talk about plants. What plants you use will depend on many factors; such as the area the animal is from, whether it's being planted in the soil or mounted, and the amount of water that will be available. Much like the bio-active article, this is meant as a guide, and not a "one stop shop" for plants. Always do lots of research before starting your enclosures.
Bromeliads
Coming from many different habitats, Bromeliads (often referred to as "Broms" for short by some hobbyists) are an almost strictly New World group of plants (With the exception of the African Pitcairnia feliciana) . Some are strictly Epiphytes (Neoregelia spp., Tillandsia spp.), while some can be found growing on trees, as well as in soil (Many Vreisea spp.). The more popular bromeliads are as follows:
Cryptanthus:
These truly terrestrial bromeliads are endemic to Brazil, and live on the ground (though some may grow as a chasmophyte, it's not as common). They prefer relatively well draining soil, high humidity and bright lights in terraria. The brighter the lights, the more colour that will show in the plants. The most common species available in the hobby are C. acaulis, C. bivittatus, C. beukeri, C. fosterianus, C. marginatus, and C. zonatus, as well as cultivars and hybrids between these species.
Neoregelia:
This genus of bromeliads is by far the best for vivaria. With 100+ species and thousands of cultivars, Neos (short for Neoregelia) have something for everyone. Ranging from small species/cultivars such as 'Alley Oop', 'Wee Willy' (Yes, some of them have hilarious names), 'Chiquita Linda', ampullacea 'bert', to some of the bigger cutivars like 'America Purple Mountain Majesty' and 'Avalon'; there are Neos suitable for any tank size. Some of the more common species/cultivars include: 'Fireball', 'Chiquita Linda' (A personal favourite), 'Wee Willy', N. lilliputiana, N. rubrifolia, N. ampullacea, 'Hannibal Lector', and 'Mo Peppa Please'; as well as many others. Neoregelia need very intense lighting to hold their colour in vivariums, and do best when mounted higher up in the tank because of this. Being epiphytic, Neoregelia spp. should not be planted in the soil, but should instead be mounted, with their roots exposed (see below on mounting epiphytes).
Tillandsia:
The stereotypic "Airplant" often sold as a novelty (Usually hot glued to shells and magnets) is an extremely large genus of bromeliads found as far north as the southern US, down to the Amazon. Unfortunately, most of the species are not suitable for vivaria. In the wild they are found in areas with lots of air flow and light, and have the ability to dry out relatively quickly. Generally, the plants lacking the gray "fur" (called trichomes) tend to do better in tropical enclosures. Though for some species such as Caribbean Anolis, or other subtropical lizards, a wider variety of species may do ok. Lately, I have seen people using Tillandsia in desert enclosures... The species commonly available are NOT desert species. Grasses would be far more suitable for desert vivaria than Tillandsia. Being epiphytic, Tillandsia spp. should be mounted, and will rot relatively quickly if placed in soil.
Vriesea:
Another large genus of bromeliads, some Vriesea can reach monstrous sizes (I have seen many a couple feet across], and only a few species are small enough, or suitable for vivariums. Species such as V. erythrodactylon 'mini' , V. guttata, V. ospinae and V. vagans are suitable for vivs as long as they are mounted, and not planted in the soil.
Carnivorous Plants
Carnivorous plants include any plants that captures and "consumes" insects for nutrients. These plants are found around the world, mostly in nutrient-poor bogs and wetlands.
Cephalotus:
Native to Australia, These plants are hard enough to grow in near-perfect conditions as it is. Add to that the fact that it doesn't like being constantly soaked, or water sitting in its crown, these are best left out of tanks.
Dionaea:
Often sold as a novelty plant, Venus Flytraps are in no way suitable for vivaria. In order to do well, VFT's need to be cooled yearly, need far more light than what is used on tanks, and larger specimens could easily eat small inhabitants such as hatchling anolis and small dart frogs. Another plant best left for pot culture.
Drosera:
With over 150 species, Drosera are found in many parts of the world. The temperate species likely won't do well in tanks, however some of the tropical species may do well as long as they won't be trampled, and the inhabitants aren't small enough to be digested.
Heliamphora:
Another unsuitable plant for tanks. They prefer extremely bright light, loose soil, and temperatures in the 55-65°F range.
Nepenthes:
These are one of the more suitable carnivorous plants for vivaria. They tend to do well as long as they have air movement around its roots (Loose soil or mounted). The only drawbacks for Nepenthes, is that even the smaller species can reach large sizes and outgrow even the biggest vivariums. Although not likely unless the pitchers have reached significant size, there is also a risk of smaller inhabitants falling into the pitchers and becoming trapped. N. ampullaria and N. alata are two species that would do well in tanks.
Pinguicula (or "Pings" for short):
Although the temperate species won't do well long term, the Mexican species such as P. gigantea and P. mirandae would do very well in tanks if placed somewhere with lots of light, air flow, and in a place where it won't get trampled. Mexican Pinguicula have two growing "phases"; a summer carnivourous phase, and a winter succulent phase. The winter phase is triggered by a decrease in water and daylight. Because most people tend to keep the light periods the same throughout the year, most will likely stay in the summer, carnivorous phase. Unlike most carnivorous plants, Mexican Pings prefer slightly alkaline conditions, often being found on limestone in the wild.
Sarracenia:
Much like the Dionaea, Sarracenia spp. need a dormancy period to do well for more than a couple months. Coupled with the fact that they also need extremely bright lighting (full sun being ideal), most species tend to grow too big for most enclosures anyways.
Utricularia:
Easily my favourite genus of carnivorous plants, most species of Utricularia would do quite well in tropical vivariums. With terrestrial species such as U. sandersonii and U. calycifida, planting them in moss, or along the edge of water features, assures that they get the moisture they need. Aquatic species can be used, as long as they are kept under control. Make sure they are in a place where they cannot get easily trampled by large animals.
Tropical/Rainforest Plants
Begonia:
A large genus of plants, Begonia spp. are found all over the world in almost every habitat; from terrestrial, to lithophyte, to epiphyte, and everything in between. The most common Begonia found in nurseries and grocery stores tend to be the "Rex" Begonias. These don't do quite as well as the smaller species such as Begonia bowerae. The most suitable species are those found deep in the forest, and tend to do better if introduced as cuttings. Species/cultivars that do well include: B. bowerae, B. thelmae, B. prismatocarpa, and Begonia sp. Lita.
Peperomia:
A truly large genus of plants, Peperomia are almost exclusively a New World genus, with the exception of a few African species. They are vines, epiphytes, lithophytes, chasmophytes, and some are even found in arid regions with very little water. Just like begonias, Peperomia spp. tend to do better when introduced as cuttings, allowing them to establish quickly. There are a plethora of species that do well in terrariums including P. prostrata, P. caperata, P. verschaffeltii, P. argyreia, P. obtusifolia, P. clusifolia, P. rotundifolia, P. scandens, and a personal favourite, P. orba.
Gesneriads:
Gesneriads include a large of plants, and includes all growing types, and are found all over the world. Genera found in this family include Columnea spp., Codonanthe spp., Aeschynanthus spp., Nematanthus spp., and Episcia spp. Species that do well in this family of plants include Columnea arguta, C. gloriosa, C. microphylla, C. hirta, Codonanthe crassifolia, Aeschynanthus marmoratus, A. lobbianus, Nematanthus gregarius, Episcia cupreata, and E. dianthiflora.
Ferns:
Ferns are an enormous family of plants and include plants the size of a dime, to ferns several feet across. Some ferns may appear to die off initially when first introduced to the enclosure; do not fret. This is simply the fern acclimating, and it will regrow new fronds shortly. There are hundreds of ferns to choose from, with the more popular being Asplenium nidus, Pyrrosia spp., Microgramma spp., Hemionitis arifolia, Polystichum spp., Davallia spp., Pteris spp., Didymochlaena truncatula, Selaginella martensii, S. apoda, Selaginella sp. Saposoa , Adiantum raddianum, A. hispidulum, and A. tenerum.
Aroids
Aroids are a massive group of plants, and include everything from aquatic species to epiphytes. Probably the most commonly used plants, most of the aroids in cultivation are nearly bulletproof, being good options for the worst of green thumbs. The most popular aroid by far, is Epipremnum aureum, also known as Pothos (not to confused with true Pothos spp. from Australia and surrounding islands). This species can go from a single cutting, to taking over and filling the terrarium in just a few months. It's nearly bullet proof and will grow virtually anywhere as long as it has access to water. Other commonly available and suitable Aroids include Scindapsus aureus, Scindapsus pictus, Phildendron 'wend-imbe', Philodendron sp. Peru, Alocasia sanderiana, Alocasia 'Black Velvet', Alocasia 'Polly', and Syngonium rayii.
Orchids
With well over 25,000 species, Orchids are found on almost every continent on earth. Vines, bushes, terrestrial, epiphyte — orchids are found in all shapes and sizes. With so many species, it will take way too long to go through them all here, so I will only go over a few of the more suitable orchids.
My favourite group of orchids, and one of (in my opinion) the best groups for vivaria is the New World group Pleurothallids. This includes Pleurothallis, Lepanthes, Restrepia, and Masdevallia. They grow best when mounted, and given lots of humidity and air flow. Most are plenty small enough for vivariums, with Pleurothalis spp. and Restrepia spp. doing the best for me in tanks.
Bulbophyllum is another group of suitable orchids that stay small. This Asian and Madagascan Genus of orchids is widely cultivated, and readily available. An example of a suitable species is Bulbophyllum falcatum. Jewel orchids, being found in many tropical places on earth are another suitable group of orchids, with the most suitable being Ludisia spp. and Macodes spp.. Unlike the Pleurothallids and Bulbophyllum which should be mounted, Ludisia spp. and Macodes spp. are leaf litter dwellers, meaning they should be planted among the leaf litter in the tank, or in heavier, but easily draining substrate.
Jungle Cactus
Jungle cactus (of the genera Rhipsalis, Schlumbergera, Rhipsalidopsis, Zygocactus, etc. ) make great additions to any South American or Caribbean vivarium. With a wide range of species, these mostly epiphytic plants do best when mounted. While they are almost strictly New World, one species, Rhipsalis baccifera is not only found throughout tropical america, it's also found from Africa to Sri Lanka, and is the only cactus naturally found outside the New World.
Miscellaneous tropicals
Ficus pumila is another nearly bullet-proof plant given the right conditions. as long as it has plenty of light and high humidity, this plant can quickly take over a tank, sometimes faster then pothos.
Ficus (benjamina, ali, elastica, et cetera.) and Shefflera arboricola are two commonly used trees for chameleons, small Uroplatus, and thin arboreal snakes. These two trees can be used in vivs, however they will need to be heavily trimmed or completely replaced every year or so, as they outgrow the tank relatively quickly. After all, they are trees!
Calathea spp., Ctenanthe spp., & Maranta spp. are three similar Genera that both do very well in tropical enclosures. They establish root systems incredibly fast in my experience, which helps stabilize the soil. The smaller species such as C. musaica, C. undulata , Ctenanthe burle-marxii, M. leuconeura,and M. bicolor are often the best choices, though I have had great luck with the slightly bigger species, such as C. orbifolia, C. zebrina, C. sanderiana, C. crocata, C. albertii, and Calathea 'Medallion'. These are plants I have in almost all of my New World Tropical tanks, Not only because they look amazing, but the quick growing roots stabilizing the soil is a huge benefit; especially with burrowing species.
Hoya spp. & Dischidia spp. are two Asian genera that both do well in tanks when mounted, allowed air flow and kept humid. These can be introduced as cuttings or bareroot plants, and do better when mounted up high, and allowed to drape downward. Suitable species include D. ovata, H. carnosa, H. shepherdi, and H. longifolia.
Moss
Moss gets its own section because it's such a desired plant, it deserves it. When people want lush, tropical vivariums, they tend to want moss— EVERYWHERE. While this may look really nice, moss should be kept on the rocks, sticks, and background. Keep the floor clear for lots of dead leaves, seed pods, fallen branches, etc. This will give the animals places to hide. When given its minimum requirements, moss can spread quickly, and cover any and all surfaces, including glass. So what does moss need? Well moss needs 3 main things: relatively bright lighting, high humidity/lots of water, and a growing media.
Lighting
In the wild, moss tends to grow in moist, shaded areas away from full sun. People tend to copy this by keeping it in very low light levels inside as well. What they don't realize, is that what may seem like very little light outside, is actually relatively bright light inside. I find one or two HO T5 lights to be sufficient for lots of moss growth.
Humidity/ Moisture
Most moss likes to stay nice and moist. in vivaria, the easiest way to provide this is to keep the humidity as high as possible and spray it daily to keep it moist. This is more essential at the beginning when the moss is still acclimating and establishing. Once it has established and spread, humidity can be dropped somewhat to better accommodate the future inhabitants.
Growing Media
I tend to split mosses into 3 very broad, general categories. Those are mosses that forms clumps, or "hills" (acrocarp); mosses that form sheets, or "hug" the place it's growing (Pleurocarp); and aquatic mosses.
Note: All mosses can be classed as either Acrocarpous or Pleurocarpous.
Acrocarpous mosses tend to do better when grown on the ground, or areas with high organic content. These tend to look more like little palm trees, or grow vertically, rather than horizontally.
Pleurocarpous mosses that forms sheets, mats, or tend to "hug" where it's growing are usually able to grow anywhere in the vivarium. the "fronds" like more like ferns and Selaginella spp. and grow outward more than up.
Aquatic mosses can usually grow quite well emersed as long as it is kept wet. In fact, many aquatic mosses are found just above the waterline in the wild. Commonly used aquatic mosses include Java moss, X-mas moss, and flame moss.
Acclimating Wild Moss
The easiest way to acquire moss for vivs it to collect it from the wild. If you're in Canada like I am, the only mosses that tend to do well without some serious trial & error are the sheet-forming species. The small vertical, or clumping species don't do nearly as well in the warmer humid environments of most vivs, and will more often than not die off after only a couple months. The best way to acclimate is to initially soak it in a 5% bleach solution for 5-10 minutes. Not all mosses will make it through the bleaching, but it ensures there are no bugs or anything detrimental on the moss. Once this is done a quick rinse in distilled water should be done and then placed into a small shoebox with a simple substrate such as cocofiber, fir bark, or Turface™. Place in a bright place, and allow it to grow in the shoebox. You can then take what you need from this as needed. Alternatively, aquariums with glass tops can be used instead of shoeboxes if you don't like the look of stacked bins.
"Moss Milkshakes"
A recent trend with hobbyists who want to grow moss over a large area is to create a "moss milkshake". This entails putting moss in a blender with buttermilk, beer, or polymer water crystals (Really?!). The theory behind this is that the buttermilk/beer/crystals help hold the moss and provide nutrients which helps it grow. This is absolutely unnecessary, and usually ends up growing more mold than it does actual moss. It also stinks! A much simpler method is to blend the moss with water and spread it on branches, rock, etc. This won't mold nearly as easily, and what doesn't end up growing will provide more than enough nutrients for what does. Blending may not even be necessary, and placing small patches of moss around the vivarium and allowing it to establish and spread can be just as, if not more, effective than making the slurry.
Desert Plants
Cacti
Found Almost exclusively in the New World, cacti can be a great addition to arid enclosures if given enough light, and a soil that drains quickly *Check out this great article for mixing a proper mineral substrate for cacti*. Some people tend to worry about the spines found on most cacti; if you have an inhabitant that naturally occurs among them, there isn't really a need to worry. Just make sure there is room in the enclosure to go around it without having to come into contact with it 24/7. There some spineless cacti, such as Opuntia ficus-indica, which is also edible and a great staple for herbivores.
Sansevieria spp.
Native to dry forests of Africa and SW Asia, Sansevieria spp. do well in both savannah/scrub tanks as well as tropical, high humidity setups. The key to keeping these plants happy is allowing the soil to dry sightly between watering. Assuming this is followed, this plant is nearly bullet-proof. Most species will outgrow enclosures shorter than 3', but with the slow growth this plant exhibits, it can be relatively easy to control. Some of the smaller species include Sanseviaria cylindrica, S. trifasciata 'Hahnii', S. gracilis, S. horwoodii, and S. parva.
Haworthia spp. & Aloe spp.
Closely related, these two species are found in Africa and the Arabian Peninsula in savannah and desert habitats. Much like true cacti, these succulents prefer well draining soil, and intensely bright light. Most species would do well in arid enclosures such as Aloe vera, A. plicatilis, A. variegatus, young A. arborescens, Haworthia attenuata, H. fasciata, H.margaritifera , and H. tesselata.
Lithops & other Stone Plants
These stone-resembling plants are endemic to South Africa. In the wild they are found among rock and in stony soil. Because of this Lithops need extremely well draining soil, and is prone to rotting from too much water. I keep mine outside of tanks in either pure Turface™, or a mix of gravel/limestone/Turface™, and only water 3-4 times a year. They can do well in with reptiles provided the immediate area they are planted in is well draining, or receives virtually no water for most of the year.
Grasses
Grasses are (in my opinion) one of the most unused, underrated plants used in vivaria. No matter where you go; whether it's the tundra, or the Sand Dunes of Northern Africa and the Arabian Peninsula, grass is usually found and is almost ubiquitous. Sometimes it's the only plant found for miles. Between the three families (Juncaceae, Cyperaceae, & Poaceae) there is approximately 15,900 species. If you're going for a biotopic enclosure for savannah or prairie species such as some Crotalus spp., Varanus spp., Agama spp., or Scincidae spp., grass should be the most abundant in the tank, if not the only plant. With being found in virtually every habitat possible, and usually easily bought at garden centres, grass really should be added to a lot of tanks.
The main con to using a lot of grasses, is that they tend to need a LOT of light — Often times more than what is possible in many terrariums. This can be fixed by adding stronger lighting such as T5HO's, or by simply using more shade tolerant species. Most species tend to outgrow enclosures as well, however it can easily be trimmed, so this isn't really a huge issue at all.
A huge benefit to using grasses, is that the roots tend to spread quickly, helping to stabilize the soil making burrows stronger. This can take a while depending on the species, so I tend to "cheat" a bit. After planting the main grasses and plants, I cover the top of the soil with cat grass/wheat grass seeds. Because this grass grows so quickly (Often reaching a few inches tall in a matter of days), it sends out plenty of roots into the soil, making it stabilize quicker. Once the grass has been able to grow for a few weeks, and I start the see roots through the glass, I cut it right down to the soil line. This method does two things. First thing is it keeps the soil and any burrows dug more stable. Second thing is as the roots decay and are taken over by living grass roots, it breaks down and creates a source of nutrients for the grasses still in the enclosure.
For Desert and Tropical Savannah enclosures, species such as Pennisetum setaceum, Panicum repens, Boscia senegalensis, Cenchrus ciliaris, and Aristida pungens would do well, given enough light. If you decide to use grass for Mediterranean or Temperate Grasslands, species that would do well include Festuca glauca, and Schismus barbatus. For aquatic/riparian/marginal setups, Eleocharis parvula, Carex spp.,Typha spp. and Cyperus spp. would all do well.
Aquatic Plants
While aquatic plants aren't one of my stronger areas of knowledge, I'll go over some beginner species here.
Hemianthus callitrichoides
Native to Cuba, H. callitrichoides (also called "HC" by aquarists) prefers bright light and higher humidity. It does well emersed, especially if planted near a pond or water feature. Given time, and if not trampled, It will form a low growing carpet.
Anubias spp.
Coming from Africa, Anubias spp. Are naturally found growing along the waters edge as well as on waterfalls. Anubias do very well in vivaria once established. There are many species of Anubias, with the smallest, most common species being Anubias barteri var. nana.
Lemna minor
Commonly known as "Duckweed", Lemna minor will grow anywhere there is water. It is almost bullet-proof and if not "controlled" (if that's even possible with this plant) it will quickly cover the entire water surface, choking out plants below it. Unless you have something that will eat the duckweed, I would advise against using this plant if you want to have any submerged vegetation.
Echinodorus spp.
Found throughout South America, This bog plant prefers medium to bright light. It can be grown both submerged and emersed. Depending on the species, it can grow quite large, so size should be a consideration when planting the water section.
Trees/ Shrubs
Although trees and shrubs can be used in vivaria if trained as bonsais, this can be hard to do properly for a beginner. Planting saplings in enclosures can work temporarily, but unless you're willing to do some intense pruning every month or so ( possibly of both branches and roots), then these can quickly outgrow the enclosure.
Temperate Plants
Unfortunately, since most temperate plants require a dormancy, it would be a good idea to substitute them for tropical plants that look similar. Unless of course, you are able to cool the entire enclosure to accommodate for the need for a dormancy. Some species such as Acer spp., Hedera helix, and Sagina subulata can do well for a couple years in tropical conditions, but will eventually melt if not given a dormancy period. These plants are best left for outside enclosures/pits.
Processing/ Cleaning Plants
If you are buying and using plants bought at the local Hardware Store or Garden Centre, it is a good idea to clean the plants before using them in enclosures. This cleaning process gets rid of virtually all of the insecticides, pesticides, and unwanted pests. This process is simple, yet important.
1. Carefully remove all the soil on the plant.
2. Soak the plant for 10 minutes to allow it to soak up as much water as possible.
3. Soak the plants in 5-10% bleach solution ( roughly 1.25 cups per gallon) for 5 minutes.
note: this may kill some of the more fragile species such as moss, some orchids, etc. For those, either soak for only 2-3 minutes, or use a weaker bleach solution.
4. Rinse the bleach solution off of the plant. Make sure you can't smell the bleach anymore.
Start a Plant Tank
Set aside an empty tank (or 7) for propagating and growing out plants for use in vivs. This essentially gives you an unlimited supply of plants as long as you can propagate them. It also helps prevent the spread of pathogens from using plants from a different enclosure with animals in it. The plant tank can be as simple as a 10 gallon or plastic bin with sphagnum moss or as elaborate as a large indoor greenhouse with a misting and drainage system.
Mounting Epiphytes
As previously mentioned, Many species of plants do better when they are planted above the soil on objects such as rocks, twigs, and backgrounds. If planted in the soil, these plants will likely rot at the base, hence the need to keep it out of the soil. There are many methods for mounting epiphytes in vivaria, but the most common ways are as follows;
Stuffing into cracks
Simply shoving the roots or stolons into cracks or holes tight enough to keep them upright is probably the easiest method. This also makes it look very natural for lithophytic and chasmophytic plants. If planting bareroot, sphagnum moss can be stuffed into the crack along with the plants (Not needed for most bromeliads)
Toothpicks
Inserting two toothpicks into the background, place them on an angle, creating an 'X' with the toothpicks [see picture]. Place the plants between the toothpicks and the background. This will hold the plants long enough to establish a root system that will support the plant. By this point, the toothpicks will just decomposed and feed the bugs.
Wire staple
Bend a heavy gauge wire into a 'U' shape, placing it around the base of the plant and into the background. Once roots have established, and the wire is no longer needed, remove the wire.
Fishing line/ cotton string/ zip ties
Place the plants on the branch with a small clump of sphagnum moss (again, not needed for bromeliads) and wrap the fishing line or cotton string around, securing it to the branch. For zip ties, tighten it around the clump of moss/plant. You may need to use 2 or 3 to keep it all together. If using fishing line or zip ties, remove once the roots have established and they are no longer needed. Much like the toothpicks, the cotton string will hold it long enough to establish, eventually decomposing.
Drilling holes
For stoloniferous species such as Neoregelia and other bromeliads, a hole can be drilled into wood, rocks, backgrounds, etc. and the stolon jammed into the hole.
Soil
One of, if not the most important part of keeping plants is the soil it is planted in. Obviously this isn't a worry for epiphytes, but for terrestrial and hydrophytic plants, it is crucial. The soil in the enclosure should be well draining (a false bottom is very useful for this) to prevent the roots from sitting in stagnant water. You may have to compromise a bit when it comes to plants and animals. Put the animals needs first, while still allowing proper drainage for the plants. If the animal needs a hard, compact soil (such as for some arid species), consider mixing some Turface™ in around the rootball of the plant. The soil mixes mentioned in the Bio-Active article (here) are suitable for most plants. The cacti soil link provided above is also a great resource.
Placing Plants
There are many points to consider when placing your plants in the enclosure. Much like planting a freshwater aquarium, there are many styles and considerations when doing so. Here are a few:
Use an odd number of plants
Using an even number of plants tends to make things look too uniform or planned. Planting in odd numbers gives it a more "random" and natural appearance.
Put the shorter plants up front
Putting the smaller plants up front helps give a sense of depth, and allows them to get the most light possible. While this is something to consider, don't layer all the plants from shortest in the front to tallest in the back. This gives it a "Grocery shelf look" or "Staircase Look" and is often not appealing. Planting one or two larger plants up front still helps create depth and can look amazing.
Consider the biology/ growth habits
When choosing plants, don't think about what they look like that second. Think about what they will look like in 2-3, or even 5 years from now. That little Bromeliad pup won't stay small. Will planting it there eventually shade out the plants below it? Will X plant get enough light if planted there?
Also consider growth rate. If planted in an appropriate spot, Plants WILL grow; sometimes REALLY fast. Species such as Pothos, Ficus pumila, or Tradescantia spp. grow super fast and need to be kept under control before they out grow the enclosure and choke out all the other plants. Make sure you keep fast growing plants trimmed to allow the slower/smaller plants access to light.
Lastly, place plants where they would naturally grow in the wild. i.e. Keep Cryptanthus spp. on the ground, and Tillandsia spp. and Neoregelia spp. mounted up high.
Use mostly green plants
Using mostly green plants will allow the animals to be the focal point of the enclosure. Too many colourful plants can look gaudy and unnatural; especially a tank full of a plethora of different Neoregelia cultivars. Don't get me wrong, one or two colourful plants can look really good in a terrarium, but there is definitely a point where it's just too much.
Make sure they can withstand the inhabitants
This one is pretty straight forward. Don't put plants in an enclosure where they will easily get crushed. For example, don't put small orchids or delicate ferns in with Emerald Tree Boas, Iguanas, or retics. They will be destroyed in a matter of minutes. Keep the delicate plants with small and delicate reptiles.
Don't use too many plants/ Keep the density low
If you look on the ground of a forest, you'll see that while there is a large variety of plants, they are fairly spread out (perhaps with the exception of epiphyte laden branches and rocks). Try to keep the number of species low. This will not only look more natural, but it'll be a bit easier to keep track of the plants.
Plant in clusters
In the wild, plants tend to grow in clusters. Replicate this by planting them in odd number groups.
Lighting/ Shade
This goes hand-in-hand with growth habits above. Don't plant huge plants that will shade out everything under it. Make sure the light is strong enough to reach the bottom.
As mentioned above, what may seem bright inside, may actually be deep shade outside. Don't be afraid to provide bright lighting. It will help the plants grow, and is very unlikely to hurt the reptiles in anyway (keep in mind the animals experience the same light levels the plants do in the wild). However, there is such a thing as too much light for plants and reptiles. Too bright of lights can make the tank hard to look at, while also making it look unnatural.
Consistency
Be consistent. If you've chosen to do an Peruvian biotope, don't put a Ludisia bicolor in the tank. If planting in clumps, don't put one species all over the tank. Pretty straight forward.
Pick a focal point
Similar to using mostly green plants, choose one specimen plant to be the focal point. These tend to be the colourful plants. Too many colourful plants and the focal point is lost. A big Neoregelia cv. or a clump of a showy Gesneriad can make really nice focal points.
"Safe" Plants
There are many "Safe Plant Lists" out there online; some better than others. While using non-toxic plants for herbivorous species is important, this is pretty much a useless practice for species that won't actively seek out plants to eat. As long as the plants aren't overly sharp, or are too small to eat the inhabitants, and won't get trampled, most plants are fine in enclosures with carnivores, and some omnivores.
Numerous non-toxic plant lists can be found with a simple Google search, so I won't list any here. However, if you are looking at a plant that isn't on the list and you are unsure, snap a branch or leaf. If a sticky white sap, or an onion smell is expelled, err on the side of caution and don't use it. Not all plants with sticky white sap or the onion smell with be toxic, but it's better to be safe than sorry.
Let the plants grow in
You may have noticed the almost excessive use of the words "establish" and "stabilize" throughout this article —That was not an accident. This is an important aspect to using plants in an enclosure with live animals. If the plants are not given a chance to establish (send out roots and stabilize itself in the soil), then the animals could dig down, uproot the plants, destroying them in the process. Also as mentioned numerous times, the plant roots help stabilize the soil, in turn making burrows and microhabitats/ niches better. Not only will allowing the plants to grow in make the plants happy, it will also make the animals happier since it provides them with a more natural environment. Allowing the plants and enclosure to grow and establish for at least a month will allow the plants to send out roots and for the bacteria and microfauna to populate the tank to levels capable of handling the animal waste (similar to cycling an aquarium before adding fish).
Conclusion
First off, if you actually made it to this point and read through all of it, congrats. This ended up being a lot longer than I had anticipated! Hopefully it didn't scare you away from using plants, and instead enticed you to use them in all or most of your vivs. If it did, don't worry, it's not that hard! Live plants can be just as, if not more addicting than the reptiles themselves. I often find myself spending way more on plants than I ever do on herps. There are so many choices, and you can have everything from a general biome setup, to a biotopic enclosure mimicking a single mountain side or ditch. Anyways, I could keep going, but this article is probably long enough already. I hope this article guides you towards usig live plants!
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